New '66 Project

[UGoBug]

That's funny. I am running the same setup on Frankie (kadrons and 009) and I don't have that problem at all. Then of course I am only running a 1641. That could be it. Sounds like you got a handle on it, though. I gotta look through my collection-o-crap but I think I have a vacuum advance dizzy if you want to borrow it for testing.

[CatBox]

dont forget to add the Vac you have to have a vac tap installed.

presidente had this done to the ones on his vert.

i have the msd so i have never experianced mechanically induced issues, issues because of my error are adifferent thing entirley.

oh and do not mix up your AJ Simms jets as he purposly removes the identication marks.

[BuginU2]

This is for the search engines.  Someone will be trying to figure out how install the Scat Universal Linkage (30050) for dual Kadron carbs.

The provided instructions suck.

I've hacked together the best known install procedure for these carbs.  I will post pictures later.

1. Remove all of your old Kadron linkage.
2. Remove your distributor - it will just be in the way.
3. Remove the throttle arms off your Kadrons (the old linkage used to snap on to the ball at the end of each arm).  Keep these handy as you will need them again.
4. The new kit comes with block of metal that the throttle linkage pivots on - there is a little arm that will connect to the bottom left spot on the fan shroud.  You need to make a modification to this arm.
    a. Get a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and remove about a 1 inch wide by 3/8 inch deep section out of the top of the arm that extends from the block to the shroud.
    b. This will allow enough clearance for the linkage to properly pivot.
5. Install the block and arm as described in the instructions.
6. Since you have the dremel out it is time to modify the throttle arms.
7. Use the Dremel cutoff wheel to remove the ball from the throttle arm.  Cut it flush to the arm.
8. Get a drill and drill out what is left of the ball so there is a hole in the throttle arm.
9. The throttle arms will be installed with the "step" towards the rear of the car on the carbs at the same angle as before.
10. Use the hex head bolt and nylon nuts to attach the linkage ends to the throttle arms (it will be easier this way).
11. Install the linkage onto the pivot block.  You will probably need to unscrew the passenger side linkage to get it under your alternator/generator.
12. Put the arms provided with the kit on each carb.  You should have the throttle arm, the new arms, the lock washer and then the nut (in that order).  The new arms should point towards the drivers side so that if you push up on the arm, the throttle will close on each carb.
13. Get a return spring for each carb.  Attach the spring between the new arms and the top of the carb (you may need to fabricate something to hold the spring).
14. Adjust the linkage so that when the throttle is wide open, both carbs hit the stop at the same time.
15. You may only need to use one carb to adjust the idle position.


Here we have the driver's side carb.  Note the two arms - original modified with step towards the rear of car and the other arm used for the throttle return spring.  I used an old binder clip to make a spot for the return spring to connect to.



This is the passenger side carb.  I bought an extra spring at NAPA.



It is hard to see - under the bar extending diagonally from top left to bottom right is the mount bracket that needs to be notched to clear the linkage



This shows how the linkage needs to connect to the old arms after they've been modified.

http://www.thestofans.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=7025&g2_serialNumber=2

[buspilot]

I've gotten the 009 to work with kadrons by timing by full advance rather than idle. usually about 32 degrees advance at 3700rpms if I remember correctly. This gives you the correct time at driving rpm ranges, since you don't really do much driving at idle.

[BuginU2]

Good call.  I will check the timing again.

On a side note - after getting the linkage setup last night I took the whole family for a spin.   This is the first time we've been able to all ride at the same time.  The kids loved riding in the back and the seat belts worked great.

[CatBox]

no fair.  i got mine second hand and they were messed up to begin with, with no instructions.

but yours looks alot like mine just without the extra pop rivets....

good job.  cleaner looking and you will never have a linkage arm pop off while all eyes are on you again.

i do have a question though....do you have enought spring for the return?  mine has two springs on each side.

[buspilot]

Also- make sure your accelerator pumps are calibrated correctly. They should squirt as soon as the linkage starts to move. If they are loose they can cause a pretty good flat spot since it makes you run real lean for a split second.

[BuginU2]

Turn signals - emergency flashers - even the brake lights!  There is a component of the electrical system that can throw everything into disarray if it isn't working correctly.

I am talking about the "9 prong box", the black box, the magic box - that stupid thing that controls if you signals are going to work or not.  Yeah - I have strong feelings about the subject - actually I have a struggle with how these cars are wired up in general.

I happened to build my own wiring harness - which gives me a bit of control over my destiny.  The only problem is that I have needed to locate some items that frankly don't work as well as they did 40 years ago.

So - Tuesday night as I pulled away from the meeting and headed off - I noticed my high beams were on.  I flicked the switch to go to the lows - and the lights went out completely.  Well it turns out my high/low beam relay was flaking out - but it made me realize that I didn't really get the wiring done the way I wanted.

I am on a mission to fix this now.

This work will consist of two parts.

1. To build an equivalent replacement for the dreaded 9-prong box
2. To upgrade my fuse box to spade type fuses and fix the wiring under the hood.

Here is my replacement 9-prong box:




(the three unconnected wires are where I hook up the flasher relay)

I will mount this panel behind the dash and hook my wires up to it.

[Smug]

Wow! geek attack in the wiring :D It just looks painful I hope you take the time to add the wiring diagram to your spec book for the car. Would hate for you to come back to that a year later wondering what you did.

[CatBox]

that is ummm, busy there buddy.  but at least this time there is more than just blue wire.

[BusDriver]

Wow what a beautiful wiring job. You know that 90% of all Bug electrical problems are caused by a faulty ground right? (painted over, rust instead of metal. striped screw not holding the ground firm, you get the idea) just sayin... ;) looks awesome though, wanna do my GTi ;D

[BuginU2]

I need an updated picture of the box.... it is a bit cleaner now.

The "black box" shown in the picture resolved my turn signal issues... however the hazard light switch is non-op at this time.

I will be building a nice little cover to keep everything contained soon.

As for faulty grounds - amen to that.  I had problems with the headlights when they were first installed that ended up being a grounding issue.  The ground points I have now are very good!  :)

[BuginU2]

I've been noticing that my gas mileage is in the dumps... averaging about 10mpg.  Additionally, it smells like it is running really rich.  Last night I decided to take a look at the carbs to see what the issue was.

I noticed that with the car idling - one of the carbs had a trickle of gas coming out of the accelerator tube at all times.  So - I pulled the carb off, cleaned it up, replaced the accelerator pump and put the carb back on.  What a difference!  The motor actually idles fairly smoothly now and it not running as rich.  It appears now that the carb has been dumping fuel almost constantly for sometime now.

[BuginU2]

The improvement I had with the idle was temporary and the mileage is still in the dumps......

However - a package arrived today that may finally resolve my general disgust with the performance/idle/mileage I've been getting..... I ordered a complete set of idle and main jets from AJ Sims aka Mr Kadron (and a couple extra check balls for the accelerator tube).  Installed them this afternoon and took it for a drive.  Idle is much better, throttle response is decent... too early to tell on the mileage.  I need to adjust the air/fuel mixture some... might be a bit lean now.  Stay tuned!

[BuginU2]

So much for higher math.....

I took the day of the keep from spreading the plague at work... around noon I got cabin fever and decided to raise the rear of my car by an inch or two.  I felt that the tires had too much camber and it was scraping too much coming into the driveway.

Long story... but I took both sides apart and put them back together.  I thought I had the angle set for a ride a hair lower than stock, but apparently that wasn't the case.  Once back together, it is riding about two inches HIGHER than stock.  Yeah, there is quite a bit of rake now from back to front. 

I guess the good news is that the ride should be much softer than it was... and I have plenty of ground clearance... and I've always wanted a baja.

Oh yeah, I also ended up snapping a lug nut and stripping the threads out of another.... on the same wheel.