The Catbox files...

[LooseNuts]

Here we go!


They will just barley fit in the very top of the head opening, no more.

Get a bigger hammer.   

[silviefox]

a bfh can fix anything

[CatBox]

 

Just say no!


 

[silviefox]

 

Just say no!


 

[CatBox]

I packaged these up yesterday to go to Hawaii....








They should get there just fine.
With this project I have sent things all over the place (Toronto, Alabama, and now Hawaii) and it has all gotten there just fine.

If you send good car parts to people please package them to get there in the same condition they leave in.....

 :D

I should be able to cover my next machine cost with what I have sold these for.  That makes it even better for me.

 

[CatBox]

At doughnut day I was asked to describe how I made my fuel filter mount for under my car.

Well after perusing my files we have found that I didn't do any write up of it.

Here we go....

The filter that I use is a metal one from Baxter's as I don't like the idea of plastic holding my gas under the car.
I built a very simple bracket out of some heavy plumbing support strap that I have had for quite some time that I used to hang my snowboards on the wall of the garage.  Now I have an attic....

I first purchased the filter I wanted to use.  I simply went and asked for a metal filter in 5/16" hose size.  It is close to the 7mm size that the black German cloth weave hose is. 

I have run this stuff from the frame stub all the way to the carbs.  USE GOOD QUALITY HOSE CLAMPS!  I cannot say that enough.  I started with the cheapies from DIP and have since changed most of them to american made ones from Baxter's or NAPA.  The cheap ones strip and will let the gas leak.  I fixed many of those as I drove my car.  The leaks would let gas smell into the car as the cooling fan would bring the fumes in to the car as I drove.

I also double clamped the connection to the tunnel to make sure that we didn't have a problem there.

Here is a picture of the bracket.

I made this by simply wrapping the metal strap around the filter.  After I got the shape I wanted I used some shrink tubing to cover it.  You can also see a piece of the strap that I used for the bracket.

I also removed one of the side cover bolts to check the size of the bolt so that I can drill the appropriate hole in the strap.

Once that was done I connected the hole to the edge in a diagonal so that if the bolt were to come loose it would not fall off.

Here it is on the filter...


Note the rib on the filter that will also not let the filter slide out of the holder.  So it stays put just fine.

 

[CatBox]

Here is the fuel pump that I will be using.

It is a Carter and self regulated to 3.5lbs, perfect for our little cars with stock or dual carbs.

You can see it is Made in USA!



It comes with a pre-filter just like the one that I have been using at the transmission.


Here are the instructions that came with it.

It has a very simple hook up.


I will also be using a fuel pump relay that senses the trigger from the distributor (points or MSD tach signal) to turn the relay on or off.  That way if your in a horrible accident and the engine stops the pump will stop as well and not continue to pump the volatile fuel.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Electric-Fuel-Pump-Relay-321-906-059C-p/321-906-059c.htm

It is the one that is in the black car of Markies that I have been driving.
I will probably be putting one on the Chevy as well.

 

[D.Michael]

Where are you going to mount the fuel pump relay? And you are taking to power for the relay from the side of the coil that goes to the points? Are you mounting the fuel pump and filter under the car by the transmission??

[CatBox]

Where are you going to mount the fuel pump relay?

I have not figured this one out just yet.  I was thinking of in the trunk in a protective box or in the glove box or even just under the dash.

And you are taking to power for the relay from the side of the coil that goes to the points?

I will simply steal power from one of the fuses in the fuse box that I am sure I don't use all that much like the choke-a-rette lighter to power the fuel pump.

I do not have points in my car so I have been advised to take the trigger from the TACH output on my MSD to trigger the relay.  You however can take them from the side of the coil that is run by the points.

Are you mounting the fuel pump and filter under the car by the transmission??

I will be mounting it in the front of the car between the tank and pan fitting.  The fuel pump will work far more effeciently as a "pusher" rather than a "puller" like what you have in your car at this time.

Let the gravity get the fuel to the pump and then let it push the fuel to the back of the car.  When I get it all done I am sure there will be some pictures and a story to go along with it.

 

[Kev]

I will be doing the same thing... someday

[CatBox]

Well my whole house has been sick for the last few weeks and Donielle has been losing the sensation and use of her right hand as well. She has just finished the mega steroids from an IV and hopefully this will halt the progression and put it in reverse before permanent damage happens.

We also planned and executed two successful family events at the kids school, one was just this past friday and the other was the friday before that.  Schweeeew!  Damn she is a trooper.

So not alot has been done here.
But I did get my valve spring compressor back from Dusty and have managed to sneek out into the garage for a few moments and pull all of the valves out of the heads to get them ready to be opened up just a couple of thousandths so that the cylinders will fit them.

I will be using Mike H out in the middle of BFE to do this.

Here is a naked head.


and some swirl polished valves...


While they are all apart I was contemplating having a thirty degree back cut put on the valves to aid their low lift flow capability.

I found this informative paragraph on Henson Racing Engines web page
http://www.hensonracingengines.com/Cylinder_Heads_Valve_Job.html

"There’s plenty happening on the back side of the valve as well. One of the best and least expensive tricks you can apply to any valve is a 30-degree back cut on the inside of the 45-degree valve seat. This creates a smoother transition between the backside of the valve and the 45-degree face, and it usually results in measurable gains in low-lift flow. This can be applied to both intake and exhaust valves. Reduced-diameter valve stems such as Manley’s Street Flo or Race Flo valves often exhibit a slight flow increase depending upon the application. Several other companies including Milodon and SI also offer this style of valve."

Thanks to them for putting this out there for us to utilize.

I will of course ask my head porter before I do this as my stuff has been worked over quite extensivley...

[CatBox]

Picture of above fuel filter and bracket installed for referance...



 

[CatBox]

I also forgot to throw these up here when I did them a couple of weeks ago...







I don't think I will have any problems with changing my plugs now....

~BUT~

The passenger side gas door hinge will not fit the space it needs to be in as it collides with the body shape.
I will either chop it up and do some medicore welding on it with some highly skilled grinder work or rethink what I will use to cover these holes and still have easy access to every thing.....

 

[ryan68bug]

You might try contacting Bret Matney in Vancouver, Wash.  I think he's got an ad on Craigslist for machining work, and as a longtime racer I bet he probably knows what to do with regard to your piston issue... sorry I didn't post this in one of the other threads, but just happened by and remembered you were asking about machinists that could dish your pistons.

[CatBox]

No problem the man.
I saw you post on one of the other boards and wrote the name down on my list of people to call.