Lizz

[CatBox]

i do not believe that any of the posts about your cars have involved single repairs, so i think i have come to just expect the multiple repair aspect.

[CatBox]

i also just noticed that this is your new blog as that is where it is now located. 

is this the begining of your own thread?  as in it all started THIS time with clutch troubles

[Smug]

Yah it went way off topic about the clutch issue so it got blogged.

If I do in deed get the heads tomorrow I hope to have the new motor in and running for the next meeting.

You know the really funny thing is Kirsten told me not to put the old motor back in just in case the heads didn't take long. But no I had to try and have the motor back in before the DDB BBQ.

[CatBox]

you ought to be able to do it in your sleep during a nightmare by now.

[Smug]

So we tinkered with the motor last night... well both motors. The one in Lizz (1500 sp) is still surging when you try to hold a steady cruising speed. Stopped suspecting it needs spark plugs as the spark looked week at the distributor. HOWEVER! My mind was running all night and this morning while getting ready for work I remember a key thing.
During all this swapping of motors and junk the ignition in the 1500 sp died. I ended up putting the Flame Thrower II coil and ignition on it. I did not move the plug wires over. I had this same issue when I first used the Flame Thrower II. There is a reason CIP1 has a Flamer Thrower wire set. So tonight I will swap the wires and see if that helps. I might as well replace the spark plugs too so that is getting done as well.

Now to the 1776. Mark and I took a long look at the thing to see why the distributor drive gear pinion was hung up. Well the washers that goes between the case and the drive gear were jammed against the distributor drive gear (the one on the crank shaft). It took some convincing but the gear is now in place. I need to flush the motor to remove and brass shavings that might be in there but the bad boy is in place!

I will not take any chances for the rest of August. The 1500 stays in Lizz until we get through most of the events. Right now I plan on putting the 1776 in Dixie and breaking it in there. Then this winter I may swap the two around and put that 1776 Lizz as has been the plan the whole time.

[Smug]

Well I finally have the 1500 sp running right! That little balance tube that connect the two manifolds together... pinched with needle noise grips. The motor started idling like crap, which is how it was running at speed.
Well I went through all the sync steps and it was much better. I then removed the pliers from the tube and it smoothed out even more. A quick road test and I was much happier. Still a little off but I think I know how to fix the minor items.

[TotallyVW]

That little balance tube that connect the two manifolds together... pinched with needle noise grips. Then I went the motor started idling like crap, which is how it was running at speed.
Well I went through all the sync steps and it was much better. I then removed the pliers from the tube and ti smoothed out even more. A quick road test and I was much happier.

That is very interesting.  I may have to test this new step with my car.   :-\

[Smug]

I should proof read more...
Anyway I also was not able to use your trick of removing on isle set screw. Just didn't like something about it. I have the pain of removing the linkage to sync the carbs and then check to make sure they are still in sync after putting the linkage back together.

[CatBox]

i'm a little slow.  what carbs are you using and what linkage?

it sounds like you have kadrons by the mention of the balance tube, as far as i know those are the only ones with it.  but what do i know i drive a super.

[Smug]

The 1500 sp (Dixie's Motor) has baby webers on it. They are really EMPI but they are the 34's and it is a single port....

Old single carb started leaking so I went for duals :)

[BuginU2]

I've stopped using the sync tool on my dual carbs (kadrons).  After doing a bit of research (and trying unsuccessfully to use the tool with any real results), I am convinced the tool is worthless - especially on kadrons.

This is what I do on my kadrons - this process also worked well on my friend's webers.  I adjust the linkage such that both carbs hit the full throttle/wide open stops at exactly the same time.  If you have kadrons and use the original linkage - get a different linkage - I've switched to the scat universal linkage.  Also, since I've switched to the scat linkage I've been able to leave the tube between the manifold crimped off.  I've adjusted the fuel/air to about 2.5 turns - I may adjust that out a bit more.

[Smug]

We I tried to take the old girl to work today, kind of a shake down before the drive to Long Beach. Looks like we are going in the Mazda as the issue is still there. I think I am chasing a cracked head.

That said the 1776 is ready so installation. If I did not have my nephews birthday party tonight I would have the new motor in and ready for the drive ;)

Maybe Sunday all I know is I will drive it or tow it to the Tuesday Market Place and I would hate to tow her.

[Smug]

Well I have had the motor out and rebuilt after this last post. The setup now:

Still the 1776
Scat C20 Cam (almost stock)
Scat 1.25:1 Rockers
Scat lifters
CB 044 Heads 40mmX35mm
Dual IDF 40's
.009 Distributor
Flame Thrower II coil and ignition

So I intend to start the motor today (after Rachel's game). If there is still fire coming out the carburetors I will put in the standard 1.1:1 rockers this is about the only think I think I have not changed.
After the Tuesday market I pulled the motor out and changed the Cam. Bye the way the timing marks were correct.  I have taken as much care as I could in setting the gap. So it should all be good to go.
 

[CatBox]

what cam did you have in there before?

and wow is that a small little cam that you have in there now.  i wouldnt think that the 1.25 rockers would be the problem unless your pushrods are wayyyy out of whack.

checking in my engine book it says that the cam you have no is rated to use a 1.4 rocker if you want more lift.  the lift you are at now with the C-20 is .422".  itf you drop to the stockers that would be a gross injustice for the heads and carbs you have on it and you would probablly not be staisfied with it. :-[

with the 1.4 rockers and right pushrods you could get up to .473" lift and really get it to start to breath through those heads.  RPM would still be controlled by the cam and still be done by 5000 rpm, good for a street driver.

What do you mean by "setting the gap"?

hope it all goes well for you and before you start it knock on many different pieces of wood and do a rain dance....

[Smug]

Peter yes it is a mild cam but this is supposed to be a daily drive and I spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic. Drive-ability it key.   

What I started with...
Eangle 110 Cam
1.1:1 Rockers
041 Based heads 40x35 valves
Same Carb and other add on stuff

Broke a valve spring at 500 miles
Rebuilt same heads and everything busted valve spring at 1,000 miles (only 500 more).
That one bent the valve and mashed the head and tore up the rockers.
Purchased new 041 heads and the Scat valve train kit with the 1.25:1 rockers and lifters.
25 miles later... fire. Rebuilt repaint, new wiring, new carburetor, re due... less the 10 miles later another fire.

Replaced... Heads with CB 044's... still firing through carbs....
Split the case found timing mark to be in line so I swapped the cam. By the way leak down is fine on the CB heads.
So here I have this motor as previously explained. And as I go through trying to get back to the point where it ran fine (no fires) before the springs broke. So it is clear the springs that came in the 041 heads are viably weaker then the Scat springs. The failure of those springs was either due to cheep manufacturing or that the mild Engle 110 cam worked them more then they were designed for. The Scat springs are Heavy duty. The new CB heads have "the same" type spring as the Scat.

I say all that to keep it clear for me to. I am chasing a demon in this motor. I have know real clue as to why it wants to burn. So I am looking at every little thing that is different from per fire. I am down to the rockers. Maybe a reach but where else would you look?

I agree the mild cam does not take full advantage of the opened up heads and big carbs. The 1.25 rockers on this cam should be "safer" the with them on a 110 cam.

Engle 110: 284 duration with .430" lift - Good low-mid range for in small displacement motors
Scat: C20 277 duration with .352" lift (with 1.1:1) for 1600 - 1776 low to mid range power. Idea for ratio rockers (1.4:1)

I am sure read all that before or knew it already, but my thinking was a C20 would be fine in a mild 1776 and that maybe the1.25:1 with the Engle are contributing to my demon.

Still guessing at this point but not sure where else to look.  Could have changed out the rockers before the Cam but I suspected that I was off a tooth on the timing marks. Finding it all matched up messed me up mentally. That and I thought I had the C35 in there... not sure where that cam went or when I put the engle 110 back in. I have had that motor out and apart more times then I can remember.

 ??? :-\ :-[